May 1st. Leaving Medellin we drove along side a main road that closes every Sunday for traffic from 7am – 2pm. Ciclovia is a weekly event that transforms the city’s streets into vibrant, car-free zones, promoting health, community engagement, and environmental awareness. I was so wishing we had our bikes with us, we would have loved to join in. It was actually on our ‘to-do’ list for Bogota, but rain squashed that idea. So for 65km, people are out walking, running, biking, skateboarding, anything goes with people of all ages, shapes and sizes. An initiative that began in 1984 and has since become an integral part of Medellín’s urban culture.

Pablo escobar

A little further along we stopped by Pablo Escobars grave…to pay our respects of course.  Everyone knows he was Colombia’s greatest drug lord, leader of the Medellín Cartel, one of the most powerful and violent criminal organizations in history. Born in 1949, he rose to infamy during the 1980s as the “King of Cocaine,” responsible for smuggling massive quantities of the drug into the United States. At the height of his power, Escobar was one of the richest men in the world, wielding immense influence through a mix of philanthropy, corruption, and brutal violence.

A lesser-known fact about Escobar is that he once offered to pay off Colombia’s entire national debt, which at the time was estimated at a whopping $10 billion!!  In exchange for amnesty and protection from extradition to the United States.  A bold proposal that shows the staggering scale of his wealth, and desperation to avoid U.S. prosecution.  But as we know, his offer was rejected.  On the run, he was eventually tracked down & shot by Colombian security forces, shot to death on a rooftop while trying to escape.  December 2nd, 1993. And here lies his grave.

beautiful drive

Leaving the city behind us, we make our way towards Jardin.  Out my window the distant hills are a patchwork fields of crops. Impossibly steep, I wonder how the farmers are able to cultivate such awkward terrain. Back down to river level we follow the fast flowing brown water that’s bordered by thick growing native bush.  100% Natural, it’s truly beautiful. The roads are of course narrow, and with all the recent rains there are many mini mudslides and rocks that fall to the road.

We opt for the toll roads, driving these hills we need the easiest route possible.  We pass through one tunnel that must have been 2km long!  Another a few days earlier was longer, perhaps 3km.  Right through a mountain, Jaxon tried to hold his breath, I was just hoping there wasn’t an earthquake.  The tunnel was long enough for those thoughts to creep in! 

Reading about Jardin in the Lonely Planet book, the town boasts to be the most beautiful in the district. Interestingly each old town we visit has a point of difference all of it’s own. Each unique in its own way, I’m excited to discover this towns secret spice.

jardin

May 1&2 – We’re camped in a new ‘campground’ found on iO. There were two other sprinter vans there with Spanish plates. Two couples and 5 dogs! Chatting to them later she told me that they shipped from Belgium to Baltimore a few months earlier. When the went to pick up the van, it took them 2.5hrs to locate it within the port.   When they finally did, the 2023 Mercedes van, their brand new, 20,000km on the clock van, that they kitted out for their 3 year South American adventure, complete with sports equipment, clothing and camping had been completely gutted, pillows, mattress, toothpaste, stereo, floor mats, everything gone!! Thankfully they were insured and were awarded $9.5k to replenish, but still!

It’s raining, hard. I rains every day now, and I don’t mind it, makes a nice change from the past 5 months of no rain.  Only Bruce is heavy and is sinking into the grass where we are camped. The down side of the rain is that we spend more time inside, but the up side, is that lots of school work is getting done.  Only 5 weeks remain to submit work, so it’s time to crack the whip.  

With a break in the weather, the kids studying, Tim is working on the truck, part of a gasket had blown off and was whistling. Interesting tho, there is no gasket in the manual, so he has removed it completely.  With everyone occupied, Wenke & I head into town for a walk.

We take our time strolling the quiet streets, it’s 2pm on Friday afternoon and most stores are closed today as it’s a holiday. Reaching the main square we first see the immense stone church—Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, towering with quiet authority.   We’ve seen many churches on our travels, this is the most beautiful one we have seen.  My Auntie Mary passed away peacefully at 95yrs, in Ireland this morning, so I light a (digital) candle for her, and one for my Mum, and another for her sisters.  The church has a wooden roof, so digital candles make sense

Jardín feels like a slow breath drawn deep, time stretching slowly, and the simple things become important.  Locals lean back in wooden cafe chairs tilted against the whitewashed walls, boots scuffed from the day’s work, a tinto in hand, nodding hello to everyone who passes. It’s true, everyone knows everyone.  Couples sit side by side on painted benches, books open,  reading & people watching.  Friends are chatting over strong coffee in tiny mugs, seated at plastic tables that haven’t changed in decades, while the hum of soft Colombian music drifts from doorways, not loud, just enough to remind you where you are.  I love it, this to me is the difference.  As the afternoon rolls around the town square fills up with more locals and tourists.

On our way home we stopped down by the bridge to look for another elusive bird. A rather odd, but beautiful looking, scarlet red Cock-of-the-Rock. We did see a few of them from a distance, not close enough to get a good look or descent photo. But this little Emerald Toucan caught my eye. He’s much smaller than black toucans. Actually I had no idea what it was until Jaxon immediately identified it, Charley confirmed by saying “it’s a toucan of some sort”. I am amazed at how many different species of birds these guys know.

Onwards now towards Calima Lake for a little fresh water kiting….if there’s wind….