April 13th By the time the police let us go, we had 45 mins of remaining daylight to cover the 40 mins drive.  Our golden rule of not driving after dark is for very good reason. Like Mexico animals wander on to the road, mega potholes could send us flying and it’s usually when the bad guys come out to play.

Mario and Wenke were ahead of us, and let the owner know we were on our way and not to lock the gate yet. They had already been for a swim in the river, chairs out and cold beer cracked when we arrived.  Our camp was a large dusty carpark of a balenario, just 45 min drive from the city of Valledupar. Fortunately for us, all the local visitors leave as dusk and take their very loud music with them.  It’s nearly perfect for the night, only cost 10,000 ($3 CND), finding a flat spot between the mango trees, Tim killed the engine.   Ahhh…

Nearly perfect, as there were at least a dozen horny male dogs vying for the poor young female in heat. Don’t need any more details here, needless to say she’d be pregnant by several of them tomorrow.  

the accident that didn’t happen

Earlier I missed a turnoff for a road that bypasses a town.  We pulled over and made a U-turn just 200m beyond.   As we turned, there was an almighty screech of brakes, sliding tires and that awful sound a car makes when it hits a concrete curb.   Thankfully the occupants were ok.  

Two young men in their mid 20’s emerged almost immediately, the passenger looking very calm approached Bruce.  We asked if he was alright.  The driver emerged on his phone, frantically calling what must have been his family and then the police.  

It was clear from the skid marks and damage to the car that they were driving too fast.  But here we go, this will take a while, google translate will be earning it’s keep.

Juan, the driver’s father arrived first, talking frantically at us, saying that it was all our fault and that we were to pay for the damages.  Five mins his mother arrived thankful nobody was injured, followed by the girlfriend, aunt, uncle, the man across the street, someone driving by and a couple of cyclists who also joined in on the action. 

When the police arrived, one spoke a little English. First listened to the drivers account, then examined the scene before coming to us. Asking for our papers, which he carefully examined, then asked Tim for his account. All the while they were convincing me that we were at fault, so therefore we must pay half. Thankfully for us there weren’t any ‘No U-turn’ signs, and the speed zone was 40km/h.

The sun was beating down, Tim’s shirt soaked through. The officer concluded that we were not at fault, but that it would be greatly appreciated if we would assist in paying half of the damage, which was ball parked at $1,000 USD.  Um no. (We’re not about to fork over $500 USD.)  They kept talking and, the family was applying pressure to the police, who then decided it would be best for a Traffic Inspector to decide. 

So we waited, another hot 20 mins. She arrives, off duty we assume, in her cut off denim shorts and t-shirt looking she’d just come from a bbq. Doesn’t even look at the skid marks, or survey the situation but goes directly to the damaged vehicle to assess.  Ugh, I wondered if she is a friend or family member. 

We are told her conclusion will be the final word.  So we wait, not understanding a word, but her body language says much. During that time the owner approaches us again and asks how much money we can transfer to a US bank account!  They are determined to get something from us.  Now they want to call a mechanic and ask him to come and give a quote.  Five mins later they want to call someone else who speaks good English to come down and be a translator and negotiator. The passenger asks for my number and email, which I happily give…an old one I don’t use.  

It’s getting late, Tim appeals to the Police officer. We think he understood clearly, but felt bad for the lad and was happy to ask us to give them money.  He handed us our papers, called for his motorbike, mounted and left.  Ugh, another bad sign?

The inspector finally declares that the damaged car was in fact travelling too fast and that we were not at fault.  But, not free to go? So we wait another 10 mins, now the family aren’t happy and are surrounding us asking how much cash we have on us. I tell the officer through google translate that it will be dark soon, that we have 2 kids and need to be off the road before dark.  Finally he gives me a barely perceptible nod, that was it. We walked away, got into the truck and drove.  No need to spend a moment longer, checking we weren’t followed and obeyed every speed sign till we arrived at the river.

Shutting down the engine, Mario handed Tim a cold beer, which disappeared quickly.

It had been a long and very hot, but relaxing day of driving.  We left our camp at Tawi kite club at 9:30am.  One of the other campers there recommended we take a different road out, that it was a better road that would take 30 mins off our time.  But that didn’t quite work out for us.  It wasn’t a better road, it was much worse, and added an hour to our drive.  But that was ok as we prefer not to drive the same road twice.

Since leaving Cartegena

March 29-30 We spent 3 nights comfortably camped in the carpark at Salinas del Rae nautical sports centre.   Alongside three other campers, two from Colombia, one from Argentina.  The third night Alex & Eric, a French couple we’d met in Cartegena whose van was on the same boat, joined us. They are taking kite lessons as they travel. .

This is a newly completed wind sports facility.  Kite fest was beginning when we arrived, so the water was busy with some very talented kiters.  Just Tim & I went out on the water, I found the conditions a little more challenging and didn’t think it was the best place for Charley to kite or Jaxon to learn.  

We met up with Mike, a Canadian friend of a friend, who had built a home here. He invited us for a lovely dinner, and like any smart traveller, I took my laundry too!  

March 30th From Salinas we drove the coast up to Barranquilla, didn’t spend the night but did stop for provisions.  Of what we saw, it seemed to be a nice city.  Continuing along the coast road we crossed a rather steep bridge and passed through some unbelievably poor communities living in very harsh conditions, amongst more plastic garbage than I’ve ever seen.  It was an eye opener to say the least.  Here people are shrimp farmers.  The roadside was shoulder to shoulder with stalls & restaurants selling ‘fresh’ camarones.  Fresh from the dirty water pens where they are raised, I wouldn’t eat them if you paid me.  Life here must be s constant struggle limited fresh water, sanitation would be primitive at best, and the ratio of plastic to salty sunbaked dirt would be 1:1   

minca

March 31. Santa Marta is the next city along, we have a tough time finding drinking water.  In the late afternoon, on the corner of a busy intersection we find a purifying machine that gives us 40L of water, enough for a couple of days.  Tired of the heat we head up into the hills to a small town of Minca. A popular with hippies and hikers coming off the 4 day jungle trail from the ‘lost city’, which we didn’t do because of the heat, humidity, bugs and cost. It’s more expensive to hike this trail than it is to do the O-trek in Patagonia or Machu Picchu! Alex & Eric join us, we camp in a dusty carpark of a large carwash, it’s big enough for our vehicles, quiet and safe.  Still warm, but not baking hot.  

We spent 2 nights here, Tim wanted to do some work on the camper.  The kids hit the books, and then we all went for a walk to the river for a cool off swim.    

palm beach camp

April 2-4th. Back down to sea level, we journeyed along the ocean beyond Santa Marta and watched it turn from brown to that Caribbean turquoise blue, palm trees return and plastic garbage subsides.  We camp for a couple of nights at a lovely beach beneath the palm trees.  We seem to be on the same path as Alex and Eric,  they are learning to kite and also exploring all the kite beaches along the coast.   Mario and Wenke now have their truck and met us here too.  The facilities are average at best, the toilets have seats and do flush…when there is water.  The showers are outdoor with zero privacy, so we slip one in after dark.  If anyone is watching, well, good for them!

Time rips by, another 2 nights slip by, I cut Charley’s hair, then my own. A bee was enjoying my sandal, but wasn’t happy when i when I put it on and savagely stung the side of my big toe! Ouchy, nasty for the next 3 days I have to try not to scratch and it’s so itchy…

Leaving a little later than we should be, the windows are down, music is on and we’re off.  The trees are getting smaller, cactus appears as we head further up into the desert peninsula.  We’re loaded with enough food and water for 10 days.  

KITEBOARDING MAYAPO

April 4-6th. One night was spent with the three vans camped on one kite school property. The next two a little further up the beach at Mayapo Kite Club. We couldn’t fit on the property, so we camp on the other side of the fence.  No fee for camping, but 10,000 for each toilet use and 15,000 for a 2 min rinse off shower.  One hundred thousand pesos later we are off. 

The kiteboarding was good, the water was wonderfully warm, a little choppy with a side onshore wind. We’re at the tail end of the season, so it’s very quiet on the water. Tim, Charley & I went out each day. I flew the 6m as the wind was blowing hard. to make it work, until there wasn’t. Tim managed to kite upwind and into the flat water lagoon. I tried to follow but just couldn’t climb that far up on my surfboard, the wind gusts were so strong I was often pulled off the board and kept loosing ground, so to speak. On the way back down the beach the wind started to drop, swinging my kite for the shore so I’m not stuck and have to be rescued. Only the kite falls from the sky and my lines drag through all the yucky seaweed grass in the shallows. An instant mess, so heavy I could barely drag them up the beach. The kids quickly disappeared not interested in helping, Tim chatted and watched me for the 3 hours to remove what I guess was 25kg of soggy matted grass. Better than a self rescue and swimming 250m to shore with kite and board? Am not so sure.

Next stop… Cabo de la Vela!