leaving Panama

March 16th. After double and triple checking we left nothing behind in the hotel room we made our way to Panama Pacifico Airport. Which was a 20 min, $8 USD Uber ride away. A very small airport with just 2 gates.  We arrived three hours in advance, thanks to Tim.  There was a little more processing at the check in counter as we were leaving on a one-way ticket and without the truck.  We had all the necessary paperwork, stamps and copies of everything. I think the young man assumed we knew what we were doing, and so he let us through.  Once through security we  sat and waited, the kids had fun pouring our remaining Panamanian coins into overpriced vending machines to buy garbage.  

Originally we’d planned on sailing through the San Blas Islands to Cartegena, but as it was the windy season, the charter companies wouldn’t take kids under the age of 15. So we had to fly, the smooth 1.5 hour flight cost a little over $330 USD for the four of us. Tim and I had to pay for our Colombian 90 day visitors visa, a hefty $100 each! Thankfully the kids were free. Once through we picked up a little duty free alcohol on the way to meet Wenke, Mario & Klaas who had landed just 25 mins before us.

Out front there was a few minutes of chaos as were pounced on by ravenous taxi drivers. We negotiated a minivan to carry us all, with luggage and to make a stop for a full grocery shop before heading up to our BnB.  That negotations landed on what I thought was a pricey $50 USD, but after making him wait more than an hour while Wenke & I grocery shopped, balanced it out.

punta canoa

March 16-24th. Our house is located in the middle of a very low income, dirt road community of gentle people with not much to do.  Driving in we had to pass through the ‘town party’ that appeared to be in full swing.  Peeking out from behind the fully tinted windows, we got our first taste of the atmosphere.   Wow, what an intro into Colombia! 

The gate rolled back to reveal a contrasting oasis, a tidy white house, green grass with palm trees, hammocks and a pool, beyond luxurious by comparison. Inside the house was like an oven, all windows closed. Hunting for the A/C we discovered it was only in the bedrooms – not in the open kitchen, living room & dining room.  The rock hard beds still had the delivery plastic cover over the mattresses, then a sheet on top of that….the plastic had to go.  I think they buy extra firm with the idea that they will last 50 yrs. 

a long week

Still, it was home for a week & we made the best of it.  The pool was fabulous for the kids to play & burn up energy.  While there was no view, we were comfortable enough to relax and adjust. To keep the house cool, we cranked the air conditioning on max for the entire week, kept bedroom doors open and used a fan effectively to pull the cold air out of the bedrooms into the living room, bringing down the ambient temperature to comfortable.

The days were long but passed fairly quickly, our two families lived well together.  Mario did most of the cooking, I assisted, the kids did the dishes each night.  School work took 3-4 hours each day.  Wenke read a book and I got caught up on writing the blog.  Tim played teacher and researched the roads ahead. Happy hour was at 5pm on the patio, dinner at 7:30, bed by 10pm. It was actually quite nice to do nothing for a few days.  

cartegena

We did make a couple of trips into the city, 15 min away. An Uber ride was less than $5 USD each way.  First time was to get some paperwork notarized for the truck processing. Our SIM cards with a month of unlimited for both of our phones cost us $20 CAD, a fraction of the price we are gouged back home. The next trip we all came in to explore the old city which felt very similar to Casco Viejo in Panama, with its mix of crumbling colonial charm and beautifully restored buildings with bougie fashion boutiques.  Another blend of history & modern style.  

Founded in 1533, Cartagena became one of Spain’s most important ports, reflected in it’s grand architecture and massive stone walls, also built to fend off invading pirates.  Wandering through the Santo Domingo Plaza, ignoring the persistent trinket vendors, tour groups and women dressed traditionally ready to pose for a $1 photo, we enjoyed seeing this city we’d talked about for so long.  Each street & plaza has a different cultural flavour and story to tell I’m sure. 

In one plaza group of barefoot dancers exploded into dance, moving with raw energy to the beat of the drums. Dressed in bright, flowing fabrics, they spin, leap, and shake with an infectious rhythm that pulls in every passerby.  Afro-Caribbean sounds—blending beats, the spice of Colombia.  Performing for us tourists who gather to view and record it through the mobile phone.  Just as the energy peaks, one dancer steps forward, weaving through the crowd with a hat in hand, the invitation of appreciation, and it’s quickly filled.  

Our last two nights we were three families.  Efke & Pascale with their 2 young daughters also picked up their truck that was shipped. Theirs was RORO (roll on-roll off) and booked with a different agent, arrived and cleared the port in just 24 hours! They managed to just squeeze through our gates.  Needing to organize the truck and gather themselves before setting off.  

bocagrande

March 24th. Monday we moved into our apartment here in Bocagrande.  The peninsula just below the old town.  A modern, Miami style district known for its high-rise hotels, more upscale shopping, and beaches.  Up on the 27th floor we have a nice view.  The apartment is clean, modern and perfect for three nights.  

GETSEMENI

The soulful, rebellious heart of Cartagena—rich in history & art. Once a neighbourhood of freed slaves and revolutionaries, with that same independent spirit that’s now expressed through street art and music. It’s an unfiltered energy that spills from every plaza and doorway. 

Colourful murals and artists paintings cover the old stone walls.  The street food is unreal, for two nights, we wandered between the food carts, tasting everything— empanadas stuffed with meat and cheese, skewers of grilled chorizo dripping with flavour, and more.  Plaza de la Trinidad with its old church in the centre, comes alive at night with musicians, dancers, performers while an eclectic mix of travellers mill about doing the same as us, eating & watching.

It’s grittier than the old city but in the best way—authentic and creative.  We feel genuinely welcomed and safe enough to be wandering these streets after dark. Twice we walked through the park towards the old town gate entrance to pick up the Uber home.  Of course we’re in the touristy part of the old town, the rest of the city I doubt we’d be safe at all. 

CASTILLO SAN FELIPE

The castle of San Felipe de Barajas looms over Cartagena.  A hulking mass of stone that has withstood centuries of battle, siege, and relentless Caribbean sun.  Built by the Spanish in the 1600s, its walls—some up to 40 feet thick—were designed to repel pirates and invading forces. 

Walking up its steep ramps, we could feel the weight of history, but mostly, we felt the heat.  Why would anyone want to invade this place, they’d all collapse from heat exhaustion first!

The sun beat down on us mercilessly, the thick air leaving us sweaty within minutes.   Ducking into the descending tunnels, hoping for coolness of the stone,  nope,  it was more like a steam oven, retreat! 

I love exploring old forts and ruins, but not in this heat. The kids were quickly over it.   Groaning through every painful step.  After taking in the sweeping views of the city, we made a quick detour to snap some photos of the famous brass boots—a quirky monument to Cartagena’s literary past—before retreating to the air-conditioned oasis of…the mall.   There, finally out of the sun, we met up with Mario, Wenke, and Klaas.  After recovering from the heat, we walked back through Getsemeni to a supermarket for dinner.  

quick deviation

March 28th. 4pm, while grocery shopping for dinner I received a text from Ana our shipping agent, instructing us to come to her office before 7pm to pay the final invoice and collect our documents.  Not a lot of notice, but that’s how business is done here. Pivoting, we sent the kids home with Mario & Wenke for a swim while we ordered an Uber to go straight to Ana’s office.  Waiting inline with other travellers who arrived before us.  We coughed up another few thousand dollars as final payment & port fees, and received all our documents in duplicate. With everything in hand we returned just in time for one of Marios delicious tenderloin steak & salad dinner over a bottle of wine.  

Their truck is on its way from Veracruz, Mexico. According to air tags & the vessel finder app, their ship is currently in Costa Rica on an unscheduled stop. Due to be in Cartegena at the beginning of April. They will join us up the coast in a week.

Tomorrow, we pick up Bruce from the port and head to Salinas del Rae for a week of kiteboarding—finally, some wind and waves to cool off!

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