As much as we loved our time in Costa Rica, we were eager to cross into Panama and explore our final Central American destination. Exiting Costa Rica was smooth and almost straightforward, and with a craving for cooler temperatures, we unknowingly set course for magical waterfalls and unexpected friendships.

BOQUETE

February 19-21

A mountain town in the Chiriquí Highlands, near the border.  Sitting at about 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) above sea level.  A cooler spring like, year round climate, with misty mornings and lush green surrounding jungle.  Historically, a quiet agricultural town known for its world-class coffee and flower gardens.  A strong indigenous and farming culture, blended with modern Panamain’s.  Over the years, its natural beauty, outdoor activities, and welcoming community has attracted a growing number of expatriates, especially retirees seeking a quality lifestyle at a lower daily cost.

We spent three nights here, camping in the town’s so-called “RV park”—essentially just a hotel car park. But for $18 USD per night, it was comfortable enough for us. There was a covered lounge area to sit, work, or relax, along with a grassy outdoor space. The bathrooms were clean, and best of all—a hot shower! I honestly can’t remember the last time I had such a luxury.

After a day of catching up on chores, laundry, schoolwork, and truck maintenance, we set off to explore the town.

Time flew by, but before leaving the region, we wanted to hike a trail known for its high chances of spotting Quetzal birds.

Following a winding road upstream, we traced the river through an Indigenous community until we reached the Pipeline Trail. For $5 per person, we were granted entry and set off, eyes peeled for these elusive birds.

About halfway in, I caught a brief glimpse of what I first thought was a green pigeon. Then, in a flash of brilliant green and red, her mate swooped in—an unmistakable male Quetzal, his long tail trailing behind him like a ribbon. Taking turns with the binoculars, we soaked in every detail before they disappeared back into the forest. Success! We had been hoping to see one of these birds since our last visit to Guatemala.

Further up the trail, we paused to visit a massive, 1,000-year-old tree before reaching the end, where a small cascade disappeared into the rocky floor. On the way back, we got lucky again—spotting three more! Maybe the same pair with a young one—we weren’t sure. Once again, the male perched contentedly, happy to be admired from a distance for a solid five minutes. This time, even a chicken seemed eager to have its picture taken.

cascade chorrillito

February 23rd.

Tim found a couple of beautiful waterfalls for us to check out over the next two days before heading down to Playa Venao to visit with friends. One involves a navigating a steep dirt road, the second a steep 3 hour hike.

The first was a good hour of slower driving on an unpaved local road past properties and homes with people sitting on porch chairs, often blankly watching us drive by, kids often run to the fence pulling down their arm to indicate us to pull the horn. Unfortunately we don’t have an air horn and Bruce sounds more like a VW, unimpressed they then return to whatever they were doing.

The closer we got, the steeper and rougher the road became. We were warned correctly that we won’t make it all the way. Cascade Chorrillito lay just a little further beyond Bruce’s capabilities. Not wanting to risk it, we stopping outside a house that was set down a garden path. The young owner came out and confirmed in hand signals that it was impossible, but welcomed us to park here and that he would show us the way. Within moments, two women appeared with a couple of children chatting excitedly in rapid Spanish. It appears they all want us to come and see the waterfall. How nice, (back home we want to keep our swimming lakes as secret as possible).

A 15 min walk in the sweltering afternoon sun made our dip all the more worth while. Through a concealed entrance in a farm fence we climbed down. The final stretch was a scramble—dry, loose dirt slipping underfoot, the heat of the sun trapped in the trees, I was sweating. The sound of water growing louder. Spilling from the rocks above into a perfect, jade-green pool. So clear & beckoning, best of all, not a single soul in sight—just us, it felt like we were discovering it for the first time.

Back up at the road the women were to our surprise, waiting for us. Modesta was the local Pastora, (lady pastor) welcomed us to her home & insisted we stay the night on her property. Her daughters and young sons asked if they could have a ride in Bruce & excitedly climbed in. Jax, Charley & I walked alongside Modesta. She was warm & gentle, proudly introduced us to her family and showed us her spotlessly clean house. Jaxon pulled out one of the soccer balls we had brought along and gave it to Samuel, her nine-year-old son. His face lit up with delight, soon they were kicking the ball around the yard together Modesta’s home was simple, two small rooms for a family of six, with no electricity, no computers, and no Wi-Fi. They do have running water and solar panels for light & the washing machine. She told me her family lives on just $100 per month for food. Their nearest town is 30 km away, and since they didn’t have a car, Modesta relies on finding a ride—this month, it was us. Through broken Spanish, hand gestures, and Google Translate, we learned about her life and the chapel she was building for her congregation. She talked of how her daughters have a daily 2.5-hour commute each way to school, how education is their main priority. Her husband leaves for work at first light and returns daily after dark. Their home had basic furniture, an outdoor shower, but an indoor toilet. We were welcomed with “mi casa es tu casa”. “my house is your house”.

The next morning, we drove Modesta to San Francisco for her monthly shopping trip. We exchanged What’s App numbers before parting with hugs, blessings and well wishes. What an incredible, cultural experience full of unexpected connections and authenticity.

Our next stop is rumoured to be the most stunning natural pool in all of Panama….