Honduras

January 22nd

This time we’re camped 1km from the border, in another large truck parking lot, the man at the gate charged us $3 entry. Off to the side are some nasty looking concrete toilets, which we won’t be going near. We park at the far end, closer to the farm fence to get away from the dusty gravel. The lot looks to be 2-3acres in size, with a half dozen trucks perked. Facing West we sit outside and enjoy a very cold beer and watch the cows graze as the sun sinks low, turning the sky into brilliance of pinks. 

Thursday 7:15am, we approach the still sleepy border. Parked peacefully and begin the process of exiting ourselves, then the truck out of El Salvador before crossing another bridge into Honduras where an official ‘helper’, ushers us into a parking spot, and takes it upon himself to direct us to where we want to go.  Normally we would decline, however, we’ve been told that these guys are well known and will actually expedite the process, of course for a fee.  But we’re careful and are through all the steps of visitors visa and TIP for the truck in just an hour.  We pay him $5 for his time, about $45 less than his asking price. He walks away happy enough.   

Today is all business, with no plans to stay here, we make for the DHL office in Choluteca.  As soon as we walk through the door, Sandy the owner, knows exactly why we are there.  Drones are strictly forbidden in Nicaragua, so we have to ship it over the country to Costa Rica.  Her deliciously air conditioned office is spotlessly clean.  While she makes quick work of filling out forms, wrapping and weighing we enjoy a moment in the glorious cool air.   Paperwork in hand, she instructs us to hide the batteries well, that the Nicaragua border officers are not nice and will make our day very long if found.  

We are across the country in a couple of hours.  We don’t see a big difference, hard working people, with little to no money look and live the same.   Hand washed clean clothes hung on the fence to dry.  Hard worked horses, cows and ox pull heavy carts for farmers & wood collectors.  Large baskets of produce or water perfectly balanced atop of heads.  Single room houses with earthen floors and hammock beds and no electricity or indoor plumbing.  We passed this family below with all their world possessions loaded into the back of the truck. Kids ride in the back, I wonder where they are going?

nicaragua border

 Approaching the Nicaragua border at 2:15pm, we are secretly hoping to be through in under 4 hours.  Friends who came through a week earlier than us spent 7hrs here, their problem was… their kitchen knives! These could be used as weapons. Even though the machete that every labouring man carries is far more of a weapon, is classed as a tool.

It was a little chaotic and humorous crossing between countries.  Exiting Honduras was easy, showed them the forms, gathered our stamps, made copies and were out.  Thankfully there were clear instructions on iOverlander on how to navigate the Nicaragua side, as there was a very long line up of truck & trailers waiting to cross.  Later we heard that drivers are there for 3-4 days waiting. Patiently passing time in hammocks that are slung beneath the trailers.  

the bridge

So we’re out of Honduras about to cross the bridge to the Nicaragua border when this little fella, maybe 6 or 7 yrs old, runs up to the truck and strongly indicating that we follow him. He’s wanting to show us how to drive across the bridge. Expertly using hand signals, it’s clear that he wants us to drive on the wrong side of the road, jumping the long line of waiting trucks, by driving on the footpath of the bridge!

So,…we do as we are told, I mean, what could go wrong? This kid knew the drill. With all 4 wheels up on the footpath, over the bridge we go. You can see in the background of one of the photos, there is a bus doing the same thing! On the far side, it got really tight, we did graze the last trailer with the back corner of the camper box the final 15 feet and it sounded bad.  

Ugh, the mind races. Are we damaged? What diid we damage?  Is this now going to turn into a drama where the driver wants compensation as dozens of other drivers gather around to support?  How much could this cost…?

Time momentarily stopped, but nobody appeared or said anything…and so we breathed a little and rolled on, another battle wound and story for the truck. 

Tim gave the little fella a $1 for his help, that he was delighted with, no doubt he headed back to help the next vehicle.  Earning a living at 7 & not going to school.

binoculars

Fumigation comes first, Bruce is sprayed with some kind of chemical.  Then we stop by the doctors/officers window where we pre-register to come into the ‘migracon’ (immigration) office, which resembles more like an airport. Taking up our position at the end of the slow moving line, it’s 2:30pm.  It’s hot, an office size fan rattles as it makes an attempt to move the air. Although there aren’t any signs, but there is strictly no phones, devices or photographs, so I discretely snap just one.

The officer greets us professionally and speaking so fast we cant understand.  More hand signals & calculator comes into play.  We pay the $52 USD entry visa fee and are ushered to security where the luggage scanners are.  Seated behind a table is a rather large female officer with excessively long, artificial nails. These aren’t the hands of a working woman, but a diva. Eventually she puts down her phone and looks at us.  Drone? Knives? Binoculars?  We don’t mention the drone, but acknowledge the kitchen knives and binoculars.  Which we now discover, under a new law are forbidden in Nicaragua.  Not regular binocs, but specifically night vision are forbidden.  However, they are unable to determine very easily the difference between 25 yr old, regular binoculars and those with night vision capabilities.  So…we bring them in for inspection.  Clearly the kids light weight plastic ones aren’t a threat, but no.  They are both taken away for inspection.  Meanwhile there is an older couple from England who also had their binocs taken, and were waiting 5.5hrs, their pair have ‘image stabilization’ feature, and so they were ultimately confiscated & told they could pick them up at the airport upon departure.  Difficult as they were avid birders!  

And so our waiting game began…kids instantly fell into boredom.  In the meantime, we waited patiently for the police officer with her nails to finish watching the show on her phone.  Then it was time for her to inspect the interior of the truck.  Walking in, she picked up and USED Charley’s fan for her own personal comfort!! Curiously opening draws and cupboards.  Pulling out my dull kitchen knives.  Saying these are weapons.  Thankfully she didn’t find any of Tim’s 3 hunting & fishing knives.  Then a second came aboard assuring her that my kitchen knives could remain, before she arrogantly discarded the fan before leaving.  

An hour later, a man returned with the binocs.  I explained that they were 25 years old with zero electronic capabilities.  Again he carelessly inspected our expensive pair, I could see Tim cringing as he’s trying to pound on the cover.  I couldn’t help myself and took them from him, carefully replacing the cover & placed them on the table.    During the hour wait, we paid the other fees,  fumigation and TIP.   After deciding that they weren’t a threat to national security, returned them and we were free to go.  But before releasing us, another officer emerged and took my passport, returning it 15 mins later without word.  With the wave of their hand, we’re free to go. Three hours, not bad!

30km down the road we pull into another truck parking lot in time for a breathtaking sunset and cold beer.

HISTORY, PEOPLE & CULTURE

Like each of the Central American countries we’ve visited, Nicaragua also has a rich a complex history.   Shaped by indigenous civilizations, Spanish colonization, and ongoing political struggles. Before the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, the region was inhabited by various indigenous groups, including the Nicarao and Chorotega. Claiming independence from Spain in 1821 and later became part of the short-lived United Provinces of Central America. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, Nicaragua experienced political instability, U.S. interventions, and civil conflicts, including the Sandinista revolution against the Somoza dictatorship in the late 1970s. Since then, the country has navigated periods of economic challenges, political shifts, and efforts toward development.

Unlike the border officers, Nicaraguans are some of the warmest and most welcoming people we have meet. They have a deep sense of community and live a simple uncomplicated life.  Hardworking & happy, they’ll treat you like family, with kindness and generosity.   

GRANADA

Is another is another timeless gem, where colonial-era buildings line cobblestone streets and the scent of fresh tortillas drifts through the air. The pastel-coloured facades, worn with age, tell stories of centuries past, while horse-drawn carriages roll by parading lazy tourists.   It’s not busy, but we hear languages from all over the world, people come to soak in the town’s slow, sun-drenched charm.   In the central plaza, beneath the yellow cathedral, life moves at an unhurried pace.  Stores casually open around 9 or 10am.  On the edge of town we get lost for an hour exploring the maze of busy market stalls, selling anything and everything.  

We visit a chocolate museum and learn of the cacao long history and value.  It’s hot and the kids have little interest in exploring, they are hungry, again.  Time for lunch, but not before we discover a leather bag store.  Martin moved here from Denmark 16 years ago where he was also designing and selling his leather bags.  My style and reasonable prices, of course I treated myself.   

It’s when the sun goes down, the town comes alive.  Restaurants, bars and shops begin their work day at 5pm.  Tonight we are parked on the very edge of town, next to another church.  It’s loud and busy, but were cautioned that it was probably best we didn’t spend another night down by the lake.  Where we slept undisturbed the night before.    Walking through the streets we are caught in a whirlwind of battling music, one bar blasts one style, while the next is pumping out  it’s own deep bass tunes that vibrate through my body, while just a few steps away, a live band pipes out Nicaraguan salsa. 

It was an awful sleep, the city didn’t sleep, and nobody bothered us. 

POPOYO

Turning off the Nica 1 South we drive 30km along a newly hand laid, cobblestone road leading down to the coast.   The small community of Popoyo is like visiting La Ventana, Mexico,  30 years ago.  Gringo’s are just starting to discover this sleepy seaside fishing town that has a magical surf break.  Once remotely located and accessible only by dirt road, the ‘gringo locals’ now fear rapid development will come with the paved road.  That means sharing the waves, and like surfers all over the world, they don’t like to share. 

We spend two nights camped in the howling wind at a bar/camp ground kind of place.  Owned by a French Canadian who moved here 2 years ago.  It’s a bar & hang out for surfers waiting for the swell and not much else.  We were ready to leave 20 mins after pulling in, not sure why people are so enchanted with the place.  But the kids were hot, tired & in need of a swim.  One night turned into 2 as we explored the beach and kids took surf lessons.   After a 3 minute beach instruction, they were taken out into the surf, taught how to read the waves, timing and approach, then they were up and riding on their very first wave!  They were hooked, Jax said it was 100/10.  Charley gave it a 10/10, so now we need to buy a surfboard!! I’ll have to find a way to add a video.

Enough of the wind, we aim to Northern Lites camp ground in San Jorge, on the shore of Lake Nicaragua.  We are the only camper here, clean toilets & shower at $15 US p/night.  The owner, an American in his 80’s retired & moved here 20yrs ago.  

Tomorrow we’ll take the early ferry over to explore Omatepe Island…