El Tule, December 17-21
Like the tide, we seem to be going with the flow, adjusting our plans day by day. So much for shipping out of Veracruz on December 9th. It’s now December 27th, and we’re sitting on the Oaxaca coast.
We spent four nights at a lovely RV park just outside Oaxaca City in El Tule with friends Veronica and Neil, as well as their friends Tyche and Stephen from the Netherlands. Who just retrieved their temperamental van from storage with the plan of travelling for the next three months. Each visit begins with them arriving with a suitcase full of auto parts and the first few days under the hood to get it back on the road.
Our days flew by as we wrapped up schoolwork, took a walk into El Tule, and relaxed. Tim changed the oil on the truck, and we consulted an English speaking mechanic who specializes in air brakes. After carefully inspecting, he assured us the truck was fine to continue on. While he offered to clean the system, he also warned it could worsen the issue. Tim’s gut feeling to leave it alone proved right—no need for the repairs we debated back in San Antonio, Texas.
Victoria, Tyche, and I enjoyed a wonderful day in Oaxaca City. We hopped on a public bus to tackle some Christmas shopping and pick up a few more glasses to match the ones I have at home. Wandering through the city, we walked a total of 10km. Exploring markets, snapped photos colourful murals and wandered deep into the heart of local markets. Stopping for a late lunch to watch the world go by. By 7 p.m., we returned with a taxi full of shopping and groceries, Christmas shopping officially complete.
zipolite, December 21-27
Zipolite is one of many beach towns just a few hours from Oaxaca city. Again we opted for taking the path of least resistance, a new, free and nearly completed toll road. As we descended towards the coast, the humidity hit, wrapping around us like an invisible blanket, moisture trapped by the lush greenery.
This part of the coast was unexplored territory for us during our last trip, but we’d heard about its stunning beaches. Our initial goal was to reach Don Taco’s beach camp in the peaceful San Agustín bay, but the mid afternoon heat in Zipolite lured us in for what was meant to be just one night—and turned into four (or maybe five).
Tim navigated Bruce along the twisty, narrow roads leading between villages, but passing through Mazunte, was a challenge. A lively, hippie style village a little too small for us to explore. Just driving through the busy main road, required patience. We could only move forward when there was a break in the constant stream of cars & motorbikes, as vehicles were periodically parked blocking the way. Eventually, we arrived in Zipolite’s, spacious campground with the most expensive camping on the coast, 650p ($45 CAN) per night!! Still it’s Christmas & high season.
It was nice to see a couple of other big rigs like ours, both from Germany. We introduced ourselves & met Mario, Wenke (Venka), and their nine-year-old son, Klaas, who have been travelling full time for the past two years. Their camper is being painted by Julian, also from Germany, traveling with his wife and their cutie-pie, two-year-old daughter, Jali.
Zipolite is a haven for nudists & gay men all parading up and down the beach in every shape and size. Let’s just say I’ve seen enough naked men to last a lifetime! The beach was beautiful & the kids spent hours boogie boarding in the surf, though we stayed cautious of the water. Strong rip currents here claim far too many lives, earning Zipolite the unwanted nickname “Beach of the Dead”. Locals & wikipedia claim that one person a week drowns there!!
Evenings were filled with potluck dinners, margaritas, port wine, live music from Mario & great conversations. I wish sleep was as easy, but the property has many free roaming birds. Ducks, geese, pea foul, chickens and of course roosters, at least 3 of them, again each competing to be the first one to sound the daily alarm that no one should be sleeping. We kept a bucket of water by the truck steps as a foot wash, but the geese decided that it was perfect as a drinking spot & waddled in to our camp several times a day for a sip n’ dip.
Christmas in Zipolite
Mexicans go all out for Christmas, with decorations & festive music blearing everywhere. This is our 3rd Christmas in the truck, all spent in Mexico. Each year we make our own tree & hang it on the door. This year we made one from some holly tinsel I picked up from the market.
Christmas morning, the first words out of Jaxon’s mouth were, “He came! Santa came! He found us!” Presents were laid under the tree, and Santa as always, magically knew what the kids needed. Charley received a beach basket, lip balm, treats, a sleep mask, and a personal rechargeable fan. Jaxon got similar goodies, including a soccer ball and a wallet he’d been wishing for.
The morning was spent with our new friends, plus new arrivals. Crystal and Alex, from the USA in their converted ambulance, ‘Emergency Getaway’, who treated us to their festive morning of espresso coffees, fresh, home baked scones, almond biscotti, and cookies—a luxurious, indulgent start that continued all day.
The 26th was laundry day. The humidity turned three loads of hand-washed clothes into an all-day drying affair. Meanwhile, a couple of other were coming down with flu-like symptoms. The campground began filling up with dozens of tents, people are pouring in for the coming New Year celebrations… all the indicators that it’s time for us to move on.
Next beach…San Augustin