November 22nd- 24th

Tucked away in the Guadalupe Mountains of southeastern New Mexico lies the Carlsbad Caverns National Park. A geological masterpiece—home to over 119 caves formed in a fossil reef laid down by an inland sea about 265 million years ago. Above ground, the rugged Chihuahuan Desert does an expert job of… looking like the desert. Cacti and rocky canyons effortlessly conceal what lies beneath the surface.

The caverns were first discovered in 1898 by 16-year-old cowboy Jim White. One evening, he noticed a massive swarm of bats spiraling out of a dark hole in the ground. Fascinated, he carefully climbed down to the entrance of a large cave mouth and peered into the blackness. Returning a few days later with a burning curiosity and makeshift wire ladder. Little did he know that day would change him and set the course of his life. Jim was the first person (white) to explore the caverns and dedicated his entire life exploring, naming, and guiding these underground wonders. Established as a National park In 1930, where Jim became one of the Rangers. Today, nearly half a million people visit each year.

The Descent into the Caverns

Starting our journey at the Natural Entrance, the descent was both exhilarating and humbling. Light quickly faded, and within moments, we were walking in near darkness. I was greatful for the stainless steel handrails that lined the path—a necessity because my head was on a swivel. I kept bumping into the rails, our eyes trying to adjust to the darkness. The main features were illuminated, there was just enough light to make out the sheer volume of the cave.

Our descent seemed endless, after 30 minutes of walking downward, estimated 500 feet below, we arrived at the famous Big Room, it was jaw drooping! This massive limestone chamber stretches nearly 4,000 feet long and is 255 feet high at its tallest point. It’s the largest cave chamber in North America and an undeniable reminder of nature’s ability to create wonders.

A true masterpiece in the works, hidden from eyes and light for thousands and thousands of years. The Big Room was like stepping into another world. The formations—stalactites, stalagmites, towering columns, delicate soda straws, and twisting helictites—were otherworldly. We learned that each drop of water, takes roughly 30 years to slowly seep its way through the rock above. When a drop landed on my head, I couldn’t help but feel a little guilty that something that took decades to travel had “gone to waste” on me!

At the cavern’s lowest accessible point, we encountered Iceberg Rock, a massive chunk of limestone that fell from the ceiling about 14,000 years ago. Aptly named—it’s roughly the size of an eight-story building or an actual iceberg! Looking at my photos I’ve not done the caves justice in capturing the sense of scale, but you get the idea.

Thankfully, we didn’t have to retrace our steps to exit. Instead, a high-speed elevator jetted us back to the surface. I din’t find out just how far down we were, the elevator said 750 (floors or feet?) Emerging into the sunlight was surreal, like waking from a dream. Jaxon immediately declared it the best National Park he’d ever been to, and I think it might be mine too.

We spent the night at a great road side rest area listed on iOverlander, a well-maintained & popular area with picnic tables, sunshades, and clean facilities. There were a few other campers, including a friendly Kiwi guy originally from Auckland, (now Vancouver), with his Canadian girlfriend couple expecting their first child and enjoying their final few months of van life freedom.

On to Guadalupe Mountains and Texas

The next day, we made the short drive to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, home to more of the same ancient reef that formed Carlsbad Caverns. The rugged desert landscape was beautiful, but after the magic of the caverns, it felt a little underwhelming. We explored the visitor center and considered hiking, but the heat and the thought of doubling back on our route led us to move on.

That afternoon, we crossed into Texas, there to greet us was even more endless stretches of highway, mpatient drivers, and burning sunshine.

Next stop… Mc Donald Observatory & Fort Davis Historical National Park.