The Trampoline of death

May 16th.  This road is 70 km long, it climbs (or descends, depending on direction) from steamy Mocoa at 600 meters to nearly 2,800 meters in the Andes.  We set off early on a Sunday morning in hopes we don’t meet too much traffic.  Climbing steadily on the narrow dirt road that is most often without guardrails.

Switchback after switchback, the views expand before dipping into the folds of the hills.  Dense vegetation covers the mountains -it felt just like New Zealand. I even pretended we were driving through the Coromandel Peninsula, with the towering palms just like at home. 

It took us five hours to complete the route.  Always climbing, we do pass a few vehicles, fortunately at the wide points.  Summiting in three hours at 2,700 meters.  There are a few houses at the top offering empanadas and junk foods for travellers.   The descent was  more gentle but longer, we arrived at Laguna de la Cocha mid afternoon.

 The road is stunningly beautiful, but it’s easy to see how dangerous it can become for anyone driving too fast or not paying close attention. Frequent rains trigger mudslides, washing away sections of the road and any remaining guardrails.  We passed sections that were soft on the outside.  Parts are very narrow, with vertical drop off if one was to misjudge their size.      True to the name, we saw too many roadside death markers to count. The drop-offs are terrifyingly steep—we joked about how many bounces or how long the free fall would be, but the truth is, this road claims far more lives than it should.

Earning the nickname “El Trampolín de la Muerte”, or “The Trampoline of Death”, because of the way the winding road seems to bounce along the edge of steep cliffs—like a trampoline, giving drivers the feeling of rising and falling.

laguna de la cocha

17th. That night, we camped at Chalet Guamuez, a small slice of Switzerland on the shore of Laguna de la Cocha.  With its Swiss-style chalets, beautifully kept gardens, red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and even a large cowbell hanging in the entryway, it felt charming and a little surreal. For 50,000 COP, we could park and enjoy the grounds, where they grow all their own organic vegetables.

At 4 p.m., we boarded a small boat to visit a nearby village nicknamed Little Venice. It’s a quirky place that’s built from shanty looking squats, to become something of a tourist attraction.  The brightly painted riverboats lined up along the canals were picturesque, and the quaint arched bridges leading to small restaurants added to the charm. While the setting had a touristy edge—with souvenir stalls selling all the usual things.  Largely inhabited by an indigenous population. Being this close to the Ecuadorian border, we could already start to see cultural shifts—subtle differences in dress, language, and even facial features.

Back at the lodge, we ate together in the cozy dining room.  Dinner began with a fresh and tasty garden vegetable soup, followed by perfectly cooked lake trout. Simple, local, and delicious.

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las lejas

May 18th. We visited the Las Lajas Sanctuary, and honestly, it’s one of the most stunning churches we’ve ever seen—like something straight out of a fairy tale. Built inside a steep canyon, the whole structure spans a river gorge with an arched bridge leading up to it, and the backdrop of lush green cliffs just makes it even more magical. The story goes that it was built on the site where a miracle occurred in the 1700s, and over time it became a sacred pilgrimage site. These days, it draws visitors from all over, and for good reason. There’s even a gondola now that takes you soaring above the canyon for a breathtaking view.  The whole area is just so picturesque, from the stonework of the church to the colourful stalls lining the road down. Definitely one of those places that feels special the moment you arrive.

We parked at the top of the gondola where they allow travellers to spend the night.  Tim was not feeling great, so he climbed into bed for the afternoon.  The kids & I set out in the rain to find the sanctuary, the place I’ve been wanting to visit for many years. I had underestimated the popularity of the place, I think there is one service after another from dawn to dusk.  We came back on the gondola that moved slowly.  The following morning Tim was feeling much better, so he & I set out early to explore the church on our own and let the kids sleep in.  This time we were the only people there…

After two unforgettable months exploring Colombia, we leave with hearts full of colour, stories, and gratitude. From the hot dry desert coast to lush jungles and towering mountains to the vibrant towns and warm, generous people, this country has surprised us at every turn. Colombia is a land of contrasts and deep soul. A place where life is rich, and the smiles are genuine.

Ecuador is just 20km away…