April 29th -As we descended the massive, steep hill into Medellín, we caught our first glimpse of the city. Unfortunately, there was nowhere to pull over and soak it in from above, but the view still impressed—towering apartment buildings and sprawling orange-brick favelas clung to the hillsides, steadily reclaiming space from the natural greenery.
Once down in the valley, we were immediately swallowed by heavy traffic and a chaotic swarm of motorbikes, weaving through lanes with a loose interpretation of the law—let’s just say “optional compliance” seemed to be the vibe. With Waze as our guide, we navigated our way to a small street in a Level 4/5 residential neighborhood. (Colombia uses a 1–6 socioeconomic scale, with 6 being the most affluent.) Many other Overlanders had parked here without issue, so we decided to join that list.
We arrived mid-afternoon and spent the first hour fielding questions from curious locals and chatting with a few wide-eyed admirers of our rig. Then it was laundry time.
chores
Armed with two bags of well-traveled, questionably scented clothing, we schlepped across the city on foot for 35 minutes. I’m sure we looked like wandering vagabonds—equal parts rugged and ripe. We finally reached the laundromat, loaded the machines, and treated ourselves to a much-needed cappuccino. Once the clothes were spinning in the dryer, we left the kids behind (don’t worry—they had Wi-Fi) and made a quick dash to a nearby print shop, about 10 minutes away, to get some new decals made for the truck.
Back to collect kids who had folded the laundry, quick uber ride to a mall to buy the iPad we’d been procrastinating about for the past 6 months. After stepping on Charley’s computer, school work has been a challenge juggling devices. We ate at the mall saving having to cook in the truck, then uber back. By then it was raining cats & dogs, the streets flooded, poor motobikers would be soaked through. It rained all night, we’re parked beneath a tree that drips loudly on to the roof all night.
comuna 13
April 30th Today is Klass’s 10th birthday. To celebrate Wenke booked a free walking tour of Communa 13. Free by no charge, but they do, of course ask for a donation at the end. A district of Medellin that was once notorious for violence but now celebrated for its remarkable transformation. During the 80’s & 90’s plagued by drug cartels and guerrilla warfare. It has since undergone a dramatic revival through community-led initiatives, government investment, and urban innovation. Today, Comuna 13 is known for its vibrant street art, outdoor escalators, and cultural resilience. Now a popular tourist destination, drawing visitors with its colourful murals, local hip-hop performances and ambitious youth.
Taking the subway across the city, we worked out that our ticket to ride the train was also valid for the gondola. With time before we meet our tour guide we took a 30 min round trip up over Communa 7. The gondola system was installed in 2007 and has been a game changer for the locals who had to walk up millions of steep stairs daily. Good exercise, but I couldn’t imagine how it would be to be shlepping furniture or groceries on a daily basis.
The scheduled 2hour tour wrapped up at the 4 hour mark, by then we’d had enough story telling. Having only seen half the area, we spent the next 1.5hrs strolling the upper portion taking care to avoid young kids riding skateboards, families on motos and people eagerly beckoning us into their bars, restaurants or gift and trinket stands.
The street art here is amazing! Bright, bold graffiti and murals cover just about every wall and staircase, telling stories of the neighbourhood’s rough past and its incredible transformation. Every piece seems to carry a message of hope, resistance, or pride. Walking through it all, you can see the creativity & energy that’s helped turn the area around.
It was already dark by the time we left—another amazing day fully immersed in such rich Colombian culture. Dinner was at a Brazilian restaurant, before heading home with very full tummies. After all the walking we’d done over the past couple of days, it felt good to be out and moving, but I was more than ready to crash. Tired and content, we fell into bed—just as the rain started up again.
oozing culture
Next stop…Jardin