adios antigua
January 15th. Sadly, all good things must come to an end. We’ve absolutely loved our time in Antigua, the city, the culture, the hiking, the food, and everyone we met. But as the sun keeps turning, so must our wheels, and now it’s time to move on. Today, we’re heading towards the Guatemala-El Salvador border and cross over tomorrow morning.
Our friends Mario and Wenke are going the opposite way, off to explore Lake Atitlán. We’ll catch up with them in Colombia in a few months.
One of my favourite things about Guatemala are the chicken busses. They’re are like mobile fiestas on wheels, bursting with colour and character! These icons are hand-me-downs from U.S. schools, then transformed into works of art with vibrant paint jobs, chrome accents and eye-catching decorations. Each bus has its own personality, often named and blessed for good luck. Good luck for the passengers as the drivers are kamikaze crazy. Distorted Marimba music blares from speakers, vendors hop on and off selling crafts, snacks and maybe even chickens. They weave through narrow streets or chaotic city traffic like they’re driving a minivan. They have assistants that hang from the open door, shouting destinations, collecting fares, and tossing luggage onto the roof. They are big air polluters, each time they accelerate, whomever happens to be standing there is bathed in thick plumes of nasty black smoke.
Guatemala to El Salvador Border
January 16
That night, we slept just meters from the migration offices. A small river separates the two countries, but on the Guatemala side, the road downhill made finding a level spot nearly impossible. We parked near a concrete wall at the edge of a stinky ditch—far from ideal, but the light was fading, and the thought of climbing back up that giant hill was a no go. We don’t normally sleep at border towns, which are often nasty little places, but tonight ain’t so bad.
Sleep wasn’t easy: the area was brightly lit, hot, humid, and still. Locals milled about—currency exchangers, “helpers,” and plenty of skinny dogs sniffing around roadside food stands fighting over scraps. Nobody bothered us.
By 7:30am we were stamped out of Guatemala and crossing the bridge into El Salvador. The process on the other side was a bit confusing—lots of going over here, then there for papers, stamps & signatures—but people were happy to help, it was relatively smooth overall. After an hour and a half, we were through!
A little history
El Salvador, the smallest country in Central America, has a history full of resilience and complexity. Its roots trace back to the indigenous Pipil people, who built thriving communities before Spanish colonization in the 1500s. After gaining independence from Spain in 1821, the country joined and eventually separated from several Central American federations. The 20th century brought economic struggles and political unrest, culminating in a brutal civil war from 1980 to 1992. Despite these challenges, El Salvador’s rich culture, strong communities, and determination to rebuild continue to define its story.
Exploring El Salvador
This is our first visit to El Salvador, and since it wasn’t part of our original plan, we’re figuring things out as we go. First stop, a pyramid archaeological site. But once we arrived, we discovered we could see it all from the footpath. Recent iOverlander reviews also mentioned that the site lacked funding and upkeep—sun-faded signs in Spanish, and little else to offer. We decided to skip it.
Instead, we turned onto the Ruta de las Flores, a stunning mountain road winding through picturesque villages. Coffee plantations lined the way, and the scenery was incredible—jungle-covered mountains, vibrant bougainvillea in full bloom. Just have to look past all the road side garbage.
We spent our first night camped on a working farm. As we pulled in, the farmer was herding cows across the paddock, and workers in yellow shirts were sorting crates of tomatoes. Surprisingly, an armed guard stood nearby. Later, we learned those men were prisoners nearing the end of their sentences, part of a government reintegration program. They don’t get paid but receive meals in exchange for their work.
The farm appeared to be multi purpose with dairy cattle, tomatoes, carrots and palm all being grown. Beyond, a small volcano dominated the view. The farmer didn’t charge us to camp, nor did he seem to mind the tree branches we broke off as we drove in. Asking only that we eat at his café—which we happily did, enjoying delicious pupusas.
Pupusa’s are traditional Salvadoran dish made of thick corn tortillas stuffed with delicious fillings like cheese, beans, or meat, or a mix of all three. Cooked on a hot plate like tacos, they’re typically served with curtido (a tangy cabbage slaw) and salsa roja. They are a flavourful staple of Salvadoran cuisine.
Coming up, Santa Ana Volcano…