A big check mark on life’s bucket list. We managed to book a last-minute cruise online—six nights, seven days—for a small fortune, but still 60% less than the usual rate. The plane tickets weren’t as kind on the wallet, but it had to be done.
We left Bruce safely tucked away at Andy’s “Coda Vista” campground in Quito, where it seems everyone leaves their vehicles. Surrounded by a high concrete wall, we knew it would be secure while we were gone.
first impressions
26th May. Our flight from Quito to Baltra Island departed in the morning, landing around noon. With just four small backpacks, we squeezed in everything we’d need for a week—including our wetsuits & kids snorkelling gear. At arrivals, we joined a long queue to hand over a staggering $200 USD per person as the Galápagos entry fee. With that kind of daily revenue, one might expect pristine streets, completed homes, and a solid recycling and garbage system.
Not so. It’s hard to see where the money goes—it sure doesn’t appear to be conservation, infrastructure, healthcare, or education. Baltra Island itself is small, stark, and volcanic, with little vegetation. From the airport, we paid $5 per person for a bus to the canal, $1 per person for the short water crossing, and $30 for a taxi to our hotel for the night. The next morning, we had to retrace those steps—same transport, same fees—to return to the airport for our cruise. But who’s counting… just me, I suppose.
It’s a tourist town, and everyone is out to make a buck. Even our taxi driver, who offered to take us to see the giant tortoises—for a price, of course, but failed to mention that until later… But our boat cruise didn’t include Giant Tortoise viewing, so we naturally said YES! And we’re happy we did. Since they’re on private land, we had to pay $32 to walk the land, but this did include an English-speaking ‘guide’, who seemed more tired than enthusiastic.
Still, the giant tortoises were something else. Massive, slow-moving, with beautiful shells—true living dinosaurs. They’ve adapted to their specific environments over millennia, which is why their shells vary in shape: domed, saddleback, curved or flat. Some have four plates, others five. You can estimate their age by the texture of their shells—young tortoises have grooves and ridges, while older ones are smoother. They roam freely, grazing and wallowing in muddy pools. Males are larger with long tails (where their reproductive organs are located); females are smaller with shorter tails. They can live anywhere from 80 to over 150 years. We saw at least 50, some submerged in water, others slowly munching away at vegetation. We also explored a nearby lava tunnel before being dropped at our hotel.
Of course, the taxi driver expected another $30 on top of the fare for his time. Everyone’s got their hand out—but hey, it’s a tourist destination and people need to make a living. We negotiated $20.
Our room was adequate—three double beds. We dumped our bags and set off to explore the scruffy little town and find something to eat. I suppose I expected a bit more polish, especially considering how much it costs to get here. Street food sufficed for dinner, Tim & Jaxon sampled bbq’d beef intestines, while Charley & I looked the other way.
Tim and I squeezed into one bed, while the kids delighted in having their own. There were sheets, but no blankets. Jaxon and I froze thanks to an overactive air conditioner. I tried twice to turn it down or off, but had no luck. Jaxon ended up getting fully dressed, and I put my hoodie on & used a towel for a blanket. Breakfast the next morning was served on the rooftop terrace: $5 per person for one scrambled egg, a fresh croissant, sliced fruit, and a choice of juice, coffee, or tea. A taxi costing another $30 took us back to the channel, then back to the airport where we met the rest of the crew passengers & guide.
The Letty
Our cruise boat, The Letty, had eight small cabins, each with its own bathroom. The boat is at least 30 years old and has been sailing these waters ever since touching water. The crew of eight were fantastic—professional, friendly, and helpful. Our guide, Jhover, was extremely knowledgeable, a certified Level 3, but his delivery was a bit patronizing, which irritated us all, and a few of the other passengers were ready to toss him overboard by day three.
We enjoyed three cooked meals a day, always something fresh and different. There were 14 passengers in total, all of whom had booked just a day or two before departure. Four were English, a young couple from Germany, Mario, Wenke, and Klaas (also from Germany), one traveler from Egypt, and the four of us Canadians. We were a quiet bunch, in bed by 9pm—our bartender barely poured five beers the entire week.
Each day started before dawn with hot tea or coffee on the sun deck while we watched the sunrise. Breakfast was at 7 a.m., followed by an 8 a.m. departure on the dinghy to explore islands, snorkel, or hike. We’d return for lunch at noon, rest or take part in an afternoon excursion, and then be back on board for dinner around 7 p.m.
At night we motored to the various bays around the Eastern Islands. Visiting Santiago, Fernando, Floriana, San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela islands. Many of the islands don’t have any inhabitants.
A history brief
The Galápagos Islands, located about 1,000 km (620 miles) off the coast of Ecuador, are a volcanic archipelago formed by a hotspot beneath the Nazca tectonic plate. As this tectonic plate moves southeast, new islands are born while older ones erode. The westernmost islands, such as Fernandina and Isabela, are still geologically young and volcanically active.
Their extreme isolation allowed animals and plants to evolve in unusual and specialized ways. The islands are home to iconic species like the marine iguana, giant tortoise, flightless cormorant, and the group of birds known as Darwin’s finches. These unique adaptations helped Charles Darwin formulate his theory of evolution by natural selection after his 1835 visit aboard the HMS Beagle.
Ocean currents play a vital role in shaping life on the islands. The cold Humboldt Current from the south brings nutrient-rich waters that support a vast array of marine life. The Cromwell Current from the west rises from deep in the Pacific, creating cool, productive conditions that support species like Galápagos penguins and marine iguanas. El Niño events, caused by shifts in ocean temperatures and currents, periodically disrupt these systems.
giant tortoise
Humans first reached the Galápagos in the 16th century. For centuries afterward, pirates, whalers, and seal hunters visited the islands. During this time, giant tortoises were taken in huge numbers—some 100,000 or more were removed by whalers and naval expeditions to be used as food, as they could survive months on ships without water or food. This decimated tortoise populations across several islands, including Pinta Island.
Later, permanent settlers and penal colonies brought further damage. One of the worst ecological disasters was the introduction of goats, which quickly multiplied and devastated native vegetation, leaving many endemic species without food or shelter. On Isabela Island, Project Isabela—a massive and costly conservation effort—was launched which successfully eradicated more than 150 thousand feral goats using helicopters and trained hunters. It took years, but the island’s native ecosystems have since begun to recover.
Perhaps the most famous victim of human impact was Lonesome George, the last known individual of the Pinta Island tortoise species. Despite efforts to breed him with closely related tortoises, no viable offspring were produced. George died in 2012, becoming a symbol of extinction and the fragility of island ecosystems.
Today, the Galápagos are protected as a national park and marine reserve. Tourism is tightly controlled, and scientific research is ongoing. Yet the challenges remain: invasive species, illegal fishing, plastic pollution, and increasing tourism all threaten the delicate balance. Conservation, education, and strict regulation are essential to ensure the survival of these remarkable islands and the life they support.
iguanas
Land Iguanas were everywhere, these dinosaur-like reptiles are endemic to the islands. With their yellowish, scaly skin and robust bodies, they can grow over a meter in length and live for more than 50 years. Primarily feeding on prickly pear cactus, which provides both food and moisture in the arid volcanic landscape. Once nearly wiped out by introduced goats and feral dogs, conservation efforts have helped some populations recover. They’re a living symbol of the islands’ unique biodiversity and evolutionary history.
Marine Iguanas – are the world’s only sea-going lizards, uniquely adapted to life in the ocean. With their flattened tails and strong claws, they swim with ease through the waves and graze on algae from underwater rocks. Their black, salt-encrusted bodies absorb heat quickly—essential after diving into cold waters—and they often bask on lava rocks to warm up. Found only in the Galápagos, marine iguanas are a fascinating example of evolution in action, having adapted over millennia to survive in one of the planet’s most unusual ecosystems.
sea life
Our time in the water around the Galápagos was just as incredible as what we saw on land. Snorkelling revealed a vibrant underwater world teeming with life—schools of colourful reef fish darted through coral-covered rocks, sea stars clung to the seafloor, and we even spotted an octopus tucked carefully into its rocky den. Graceful sea turtles cruised by swaying in the current, and at one point the kids spotted a curious eel.
From the dinghy, while gliding through mangrove channels, we had amazing sightings of spotted eagle rays and golden rays undulating just below the surface, as well as more sea turtles and black tip reef sharks. One magical morning, as we returned to the Letty, on a rocky outcrop we saw a pair of Galápagos penguins, followed moments later by a massive black manta ray, easily 7 metres long, gliding beneath us. Another huge manta made an appearance early on our second morning, spotted right from the upper deck of the Letty, another time a group of playful sea lions surfing the waves before landing on the beach.
Despite being right on the equator, the water was surprisingly chilly, so we were happy we’d packed our wetsuits. The kids absolutely thrive in the water, diving deep with ease to follow fish and swim alongside turtles. Their natural confidence and joy underwater has us thinking we should get them certified in open water scuba diving—it’s clearly their happy place.
the birds
A full week of birdwatching was the highlight for me, so many different species, some endemic to the islands. Such a range of sea and land birds, each uniquely adapted to these remote islands. We spotted the curious and bold Galápagos Mockingbird. Both types of Frigatebirds—the Great and Magnificent—soared overhead, the males inflating their bright red throat pouches in dramatic courtship displays. They would often travel with the boat, drafting as if hitching a ride between islands. Nazca Boobies, with their striking white plumage, black wingtips, and intense gaze, nested on rocky cliffs, while the comical Blue-footed Boobies impressed us most with their vivid feet and elaborate mating dance. So many of them, so close, we could reach out and touch them.
We watched Galápagos Penguins, the only penguins found north of the equator, darting through the water with incredible speed. The rare and peculiar Flightless Cormorant, with its small, useless wings, a testament to evolution in isolation. We also observed several species of Darwin’s finches, each with distinct beak shapes that famously influenced Charles Darwin’s theory of natural selection. Along the shores, we spotted elegant Lava Herons, stately Great Blue Herons, vivid pink Flamingoes feeding in salt lagoons, and the charming White-cheeked Pintail with its soft brown feathers and distinctive white face. We even encountered quirky Smooth-billed Anis and many more.
back to quito
June 2nd. After disembarking the Letty at the early hour of 8 a.m., we had several hours to kill before our flight—which, true to island time, was delayed by a couple of hours. Making the most of the wait, Tim and I left the kids to down at the water front and dashed off in search of a notary to witness the documents for the kids’ Brazilian Visitors Visa applications. Brazil doesn’t leave much room for error; every detail has to be exact. After a drop in visit, without an appointment to a small office and a $66 USD fee, we finally walked away with what we hoped was the correctly completed paperwork.
Then to the airport to sit and wait, reflecting on the unforgettable week we’d just had, recounting the highlights. Eventually, we boarded our flight and said goodbye to the Galápagos Islands—still wild, wondrous, and full of contradictions. We landed in a brisk and breezy Quito, where Andy from Coda Vista was waiting with a warm welcome, a quick stop for pizza on the way back to camp then home to the comforting sight of Bruce, right where we’d left him.
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Well written up Sarah. Glad you enjoyed the experience. Unforgettable. We obviously had different agents as much of our stuff was included. Maybe you were squeezing too hard?…:)
Memories locked in. 🔒