19th July. After just one day in Lima, we found ourselves wondering if we should have stayed longer to explore more. But with a one-hour taxi ride each way, expensive camping, and the ever-present grey gloom, we decided that one day was enough. We’re sure we missed plenty, but we’ve come to accept that we simply can’t see it all. Besides, the truck is still caked in salt—if she sits there much longer, she’ll be reduced to a bucket of rust.

trying to see it all

Peru is a vast country, stretching from dramatic coastlines to towering mountains. There’s so much to see and do that our heads spin just trying to figure out how to fit it all in. We’ve estimated two months if we keep moving and don’t linger too long in any one place. But truthfully, we could easily spend another month just exploring this route—never mind all the places we’ll have to skip.

Distances are long, often requiring two full days of solid driving. We’ve found ourselves drawn to the mountains—they’re our favourite—but they also have the worst roads. The coast, by contrast, is long, monotonous, and dirty. It’s a sprawling desert—mostly shades of brown and beige—broken only by towns that are often poor and littered with garbage. The roads are in better condition than in the highlands, but busy with heavy trucks hauling goods and mining equipment. Drivers are as wild as in Colombia, showing little regard for safety.

Garbage is a constant and heartbreaking presence along the coast. With no real waste control, people simply dump their trash on the roadside, knowing full well it’ll be torn open by dogs or vultures and scattered across the desert. The worst are the disposable diapers—literally everywhere.

Before entering the park we spent a night camped in the town of Paracas, in a public carpark where we met a lovely young Colombian couple travelling South in their van and Markus from Germany heading North in his van.

Paracas

20th July. Along Peru’s southern coast, encompassing over 3,350 square km. of protected desert, ocean, islands, and unique wildlife habitat. Geographically, the area was formed by a mix of tectonic uplift and marine erosion, creating dramatic cliffs, fossil-rich sandstone formations, and sweeping bays. Millions of years ago, much of this area was submerged beneath the sea—its layered cliffs now embedded with marine fossils, including whale vertebrae and ancient mollusks.  Our entry ticket into the park gave us access to the information centre where we learned much about the area.

human history

Unfortunately, our ticket didn’t include entry to the museum next door, so we didn’t go in. Had I done a little research beforehand, I would have discovered that it houses some of the hundreds of elongated skulls that have been found in the region. There’s speculation that these remains are evidence of ancient human engineering—or even connections to beings from the stars with similarly shaped skulls. I’m really kicking myself for missing it. Sometimes being a little too blasé means missing out.

We spent the afternoon exploring the wind swept ochre desert sands. At the edge of a shallow pink lagoon, a few flamingos waded and fished. We pushed on through the dust, seeking a quiet and out of sight camp for the night, and found it high above on a dune.   The wind blew strong & cold.  The sand was like powdered bone—so dry it rose in a cloud with each step. That night we were alone under the stars of this ancient land.

pink laguna

A shallow, salt-rich lagoon known for its striking pink hue, which comes from microorganisms and algae—particularly Dunaliella salina—that thrive in salty environments and produce reddish pigments like beta-carotene. Attracting flamingos, who feed on the algae and brine shrimp.

making tracks

All the next morning we drove towards the southern exit, sometimes on others tracks but more often making our own. It was like a lunar landscape, we saw one vehicle in the distance, the odd fishing camp, but other than that, we were still completely alone. Grateful for off line maps to guide us.

Paracas really surprised us with its stark, windswept beauty— dunes, rugged cliffs, and empty stretching coastline. Though the colours were muted and the landscape barren, I find it mesmerizing. We loved exploring and seeing the vastness of the desert. Next time I’ll be sure to research a little better.

We’re now on our way to the oasis of Huacachina…