a little History
Cuenca is Ecuador’s third-largest city. A charming colonial gem nestled in the Andean highlands. Founded in 1557 by the Spanish on the site of a former Inca city. Cuenca has a rich cultural and architectural heritage. Home to over 50 churches—most notably the grand blue-domed Cathedral. The city is also crisscrossed by four rivers, with the Tomebamba River dividing the old and new parts of town. Today, Cuenca is known for its cobblestone streets, vibrant art scene, and laid-back atmosphere, a hub for artisans and expats.
paul & pam
It’s also the home of Paul & Pam who moved here, from the USA, 5 years ago. We first met them at an Overlander’s camp on the edge of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala back in 2019, at the start of the Covid pandemic. Originally form Seattle, they were on their way to settle here in Cuenca when the world was thrust into chaos. Having to back track to the USA, they finally made it here, brought a house and are comfortably settled into the Ecuadorian way of life. They’re also active in the Cuenca Foundation, baking wonderful sourdough bread each week, raising +/- $250 USD every month that goes to the local community in need. ($25 USD will feed a family of four for a month.)
We were warmly welcomed into their home and well fed as Paul loves to cook. He treated to delicious gourmet breakfasts each morning including his speciality, freshly baked blueberry bagels! The kids were well at home in front of the massive tv screen catching up on the latest movies.
They were excellent tour guides we were given a Sunday afternoon tour of the city and surrounds & a wealth of information.
exploring the city
We had a fun four days visiting & exploring the city, checking out the different styles of architecture, churches & markets. Inculding The Prohibido Centro Cultural a bold and rather unconventional museum-café that blurs the lines between art, rebellion, and the macabre. The work of Ecuadorian artist Eduardo Moscoso. The space is filled with provocative sculptures and paintings—many with erotic, gothic, or anti-religious themes—alongside strange curiosities like a doll cemetery, bone-adorned furniture, and eerie subterranean chambers, a coffin in the floor that Tim & Jaxon didn’t hesitate to climb into, and an electric chair you can play with.
It’s both a cafe gallery and performance venue, hosting underground music, cabaret shows, and cultural events, all in a setting that challenges social norms, inviting open-minded exploration. The café serves drinks and snacks with a twist, making it a one-of-a-kind spot where art, philosophy, and punk aesthetics collide. The kids were initially completely put off and quickly made for the door. With a little coaxing we managed to get them to walk around.
The panama hat or ecuador hat?
Shaking off Prohibido, the hat museum was just a stone throw away. Cuenca is also famous for its so-called Panama hats—ironically misnamed, as these finely woven toquilla straw hats have always been made in Ecuador. The mix-up dates back to the early 20th century, when President Roosevelt was photographed wearing one, made in Ecuador, while inspecting the Panama Canal. The image went global, and the hats were mistakenly dubbed “Panama” hats from that moment on. We visited the Sombrero Museum learning about the fascinating & true origin.
Set inside a working hat factory by the river, the museum walked us through the weaving process, from raw straw to the weaving, shaping and finished product. From the traditional to more modern methods used today. Out in the showroom the shelves are stacked with beautiful hats of every style & size. The artisans work just steps away, shaping and pressing each piece by hand. Since I do have a thing for hats, I couldn’t resist having one custom made for me. Measured & styled to fit just right. Watching it come together was really fun.
dentist
The not so fun item on our ‘to-do’ list for Cuenca was to have our teeth cleaned. We booked our appointment via WhatsApp, the office was bustling—we were given a number and waited our turn. The cleaning itself was done in just 10 minutes. I was given a lidocaine spray, which left my mouth feeling totally numb—but I was grateful for it, as the dentist was a little on the rough side. She also recommended I get x-rays for two back teeth she felt needed further attention… The total bill came to just $40 USD for all of us. Back home, we pay $800 CAD for a similar ‘procedure’. I won’t say service, as there is no service here, you’re in and out.
I’ve noticed that Ecuador has an abundance of barbers, hair salons, vet clinics, and dental offices. Health and beauty care here costs a fraction of what we pay back home. It’s easy to see why so many people choose to relocate to countries like this—when the standard of living isn’t too far off North America’s, but the cost is significantly lower.
One afternoon, Pam took Charley, Jax, and I on a short hike up to a viewpoint where the French Geodesic Expedition had taken measurements back in 1739. Sadly, the monument hasn’t been maintained. The plaque is weathered and unreadable—but it was still a nice climb, and the panoramic views from the top made it worthwhile.
Conscious of the days slipping by, it was time for us to move on. Paul and Pam sent us off with a thoughtful care package: bags of Paul’s homemade bagels, a batch of Pam’s freshly baked brownies, and four bags of popcorn for the road.
can we have a dog on board?
I have to tell you about sweet Petunia. The neglectful neighbours 6month old border collie cross puppy that stole our hearts. Again I was very tempted to wisk her away with us, and would have if we were heading North. But the reality of travelling through national parks and through border crossings makes it difficult with a dog.
mechanics
After saying our good-byes, we didn’t get very far. Before leaving Cuenca, we stopped in to see a recommended Mercedes mechanic. He was a busy man, and unable to see us before the end of the day, returning late afternoon, his team made light work of rotating our tires. They checked the brakes (which were still at 50%), and he was impressed by how well the truck had held up—especially given the mileage. complimenting Tim’s driving skills.
He offered to fabricate and install a special part that would improve our engine braking power—something that would definitely come in handy on Andean descents. As tempting as it was, we decided against it. While it might help, it could also introduce complications down the road. Jorge, the mechanic, spoke excellent English after spending years working in the U.S. His team checked all the fluids and replaced a few worn studs with original Mercedes parts, including one that had come loose in a nearly impossible-to-reach spot. We picked up a few spares too, just in case another works itself loose.
We ended up spending the night at his work yard—not exactly glamorous, with the smell of diesel and dust and the company of other trucks—but it was safe, quiet, and free behind locked gates. The bill for all the work was just $65 USD. I couldn’t believe it. Back home, we’d easily be paying $125+ CAD per hour, and there was at least four hours of solid labor done.
The next morning, we pointed Bruce toward Cajas National Park…
0 Responses
Agree with you Sarah, Ecuador just shows how the cost of living elsewhere, is unsustainable. Great you caught up with and enjoyed your visit to Paul & Pam. Some interesting side visits.
Now for some elevation!