Puno traffic

July 31 – August 2nd

Leaving Puno was, once again, a bit of a production. Google Maps seems to think we’re in a compact car, blissfully unaware that we’re actually navigating the streets in a 10-ton truck. So, naturally, it directed us down alley-like roads that we wouldn’t dare attempt with Bruce.

Eventually, we found our way out, retracing our route past the little farm stay and rejoining the main road towards Cusco. It’s about 400km, but we’re in no rush. We plan to take a few days, enjoying whatever surprises the highlands have in store. The road is a toll highway, once again we seemed to be heading in the ‘free’ direction—unmanned booth, no fee. We’ll take the win.

fading spanish past

Passing by the village of, Marangani we saw a beautiful & abandoned looking stately manor that looked like it didn’t belong there. Pulling over for a quick peek, not abandoned, but not occupied or cared for. Turns out it was once the grand residence of a wealthy landowner who oversaw sprawling potato and alpaca & wool farms in the surrounding valley. Its thick brick walls and hand-carved wooden balconies spoke of a time when this was the centre of local trade and power. Beside it, the remains of an old church—torn in half, its plaster peeling and bell tower leaning, stained glass catching the sunlight, hinted at centuries of a past long forgotten.

The Scenic ‘Long Cut’

Browsing iOverlander, I found what looked like a promising detour—one of those ‘long cuts’ that we like to take. A scenic backroad through the altiplano that would eventually wind its way up to where we are heading, Rainbow Mountain.

We turned off the main road we immediately hit dirt, over the next 100km we had a wonderful drive, adding it to our ‘top 10’ drives of the trip. The road was in great condition, no potholes or washboard. This is likely due to the lack of traffic, we didn’t see one other vehicle the entire drive! Climbing gently, wide non-death defying, it was relaxing. Eventually opening out to vast high altitude plains dotted with the occasional farm & many Alpaca, Vicuna & Llama.

It was Andean beauty at its rawest. The views of Ausangate and surrounding ranges were stunning, the kind of backdrop that stops you mid-sentence. The air was crisp and thin, as we steadily gained altitude. Again we have it all to ourselves. Reaching the high point for Bruce Abra de Juhaycate pass at 5070m / 16633ft!!

Looking closely at the Alpaca, we see they have individual faces, we have a good laugh making up personalities & voices for them.

Red rock

Eventually we dropped down & passing through a quiet village where a man in uniform stopped us in the middle of town. His job was to record everyone who passed through, he was kind and polite. While writing in his book we noticed the last people to pass through was two weeks ago, what a boring job. The people were unusually friendly, we haven’t seen smiles of warmth & happiness at all, generally we find the Peruvian people to be fairly expressionless. Their lives look simple, with a daily routine of labour. Farming is at the core & takes its toll on the body, elders permanently bend over from decades of working in the fields.

At the end of the valley the mountains are changing colour, rich in minerals, we’re getting closer to our next destination, Rainbow Mountain.