The wild pantanal

THE Transpantenaria

26 October – 2 November. After weeks of tackling Brazil’s rough backroads, we thought we’d take on one more. The Transpantaneira, different and unique in its own way.

This drive was also on our bucket list, a region we’d been looking forwards to exploring ever since first reading about it.

From the small town of Poconé, the track stretches 147 km south to Porto Jofre, cutting through the vast wetlands of the Northern Pantanal — the gateway to one of the most wildlife-rich regions on Earth. We’re on the tail end of the dry season and water levels are low, but recent rain has left plenty of mud for us to slide through.

Directly beyond the park gate, the birdlife exploded. There were so many birds in the air, on the ground, and in the trees that our heads were on a swivel. Tim could hardly drive 200 metres without having to stop so we could identify every bird and tick it off in our book — hawks, egrets, roseate spoonbills, screamers, guans, and countless passerines. Eyes peeled, we hoped to spot the rarest of them all, and Charley’s favourite, the Hyacinth Macaw.

Rumbling over its 120-plus iconic wooden bridges that are slowly being replaced with characterless concrete as the originals deteriorate. Some we crossed, others we detoured around, one we crossed was questionable, thankfully it held. A little washboard here and there, but nothing compared to what we’ve already crossed.

Taking our time, enjoying the moment. Capybaras with birds on their backs sit not far from caimans; jabiru storks stood sentinel in the shallows or on top of trees in their giant nests. Every kilometre was alive.

PORTO JOFRE

A remote riverside outpost tucked at the very end of the Transpantaneira. Just a small collection of fishing lodges, a ranger station, and a few home shacks. Tour boats line the riverbank, waiting for anglers, photographers, and wildlife enthusiasts drawn by the region’s unrivalled biodiversity.

Locals and visitors rise before dawn to head out in narrow aluminium boats, following winding waterways in search of wildlife, particularly jaguars.

Following the latest intel on iOverlander, we headed to Berço Lodge and negotiate with the manager for a full-day jaguar tour with three nights of camping thrown in, saving us R600 ($156 CAD) per night in camp fees!! I’m not sure where they get their rates from, but since there are no other options, it’s difficult to argue.

So we set up camp along the riverbank under shady trees, but that’s about it for amenities. There’s an outdoor sink we can use, and thankfully access to a chilled fresh water machine. The toilet and shower belong to the property next door that held no appeal. Instead, we make do with an outdoor shower in our swimsuits after dark.

Piranha fishing

The kids are supposed to be doing schoolwork, but head straight down to the river and spend hours casting into the cloudy brown water. The bites come quick, they reeling in piranha. Pretty yellow and purple bellied vicious fish. It’s part fishing, part thrill Because of those razor-sharp teeth, each line is rigged with a piece of meat at the end of short metal leader — without it, the fish would bite clean through, and sometimes do. That black and yellow tool they are using allows the kids to hold the fish’s mouth open to remove the hook with pliers, without loosing their fingers. Jaxon also caught a catfish and an eel!