stunning white sand dunes

Sept 9th. Lençóis Maranhenses is one of Brazil’s most surreal landscapes—a vast sea of shifting white dunes stretching for hundreds of kilometers along the Atlantic coast. The name means “bedsheets of Maranhão,” a fitting description for the endless ripples of sand that look like a giant sheet draped over the land. What makes this place truly unique, though, are the lagoons that form between the dunes after the rainy season. Fed only by rainwater, they turn the desert into a shimmering mosaic of turquoise and emerald pools. From above, it looks otherworldly. But beauty doesn’t mean easy. This is a harsh environment of relentless sun, howling winds, and sand that works its way into everything. It’s wild and raw.

We began our visit in Santo Amaro do Maranhão, a sleepy town at the park’s edge. For two nights we stayed at a simple but expensive little campground run by a warm-hearted lady who went out of her way to make us comfortable. Early the next morning, before the heat turned brutal, we set out to explore the dunes.

The wind blows nonstop here, shaping the dunes gracefully. From the air, in rainy season, the contrast of white sand and blue lagoons is breathtaking—but the now dry season, many lagoons had evaporated to muddy patches. It was a bit anticlimactic, but still beautiful in its starkness. We would have loved to send the drone up for a bird’s-eye view, but the wind was just too strong.

Sept 10th. By late morning the sun was already punishing. Hot, sandy and more tired, than we’d been while hiking the Andes with heavy packs. We retreated to town and organized an ‘afternoon till sunset’ boat tour before heading back to camp for a couple hours to relax before heading out again.

Sunset Cruise

Boarding at 3pm, our guide whisked us across a wide, shallow lagoon—just waist deep, with cows, horses, and even donkeys grazing in the middle of it. The sight was surreal, and humorous, like some strange mirage. Beaching the boat, we carried chairs over the sand and spent the afternoon swimming, playing, lounging, and waiting for the sunset to paint the dunes gold.

As beautiful as Lençóis was, one day visit was enough. The coast promises good kiting spots, with more dunes lining much of the shoreline, we didn’t feel too guilty moving on.

Stuck in soft sand

Sept 11th. On the way toward Tutoia, we took a wee detour to camp a night in the dunes via a wind farm. Following advice, we attempted the beach route, but the incoming tide forced a hasty retreat. Back on the washboard road, we aired down the tires and tried again—only to get a little stuck turning around. We learned long ago to use the sand tracks before really getting stuck. Twenty minutes later we were free. That night we camped beside an abandoned house, kept company by five chatty cats.

A serious Breakdown

The next morning brought a bigger challenge. We’d just hit the road when, while shifting from 2nd gear, the lever fell away. Forwards into a position it’s never been. Oh oh. Immediately jumping out to investigate, Tim quickly discovered we had a broken engine mount.

Shit, that’s not good! With the motor sagging, quickly processing the situation and what we’re going to do. Stranded on a wind farm service road 15km from the nearest road, 20km from the nearest town. For him the obvious solution was to lift the engine back into place and somehow secure it well enough so that we could slowly limp out to get a proper repair.

Gathering rocks and blocks of wood we have, Tim carefully jacked up and back into position, securing it in place with the heavy-duty strap that was being used to keep the spare tire in place.

a lucky fix

We flagged down a passing work truck and asked if they knew of a good welder in the next town. The two young men suggested we head over to the substation, where they knew a welder to be.

Dropping the cab and starting the engine, the strap held, we very slowly drove just 1km over to the substation. Using google translate we managed to speak with a security officer, who made a couple of phone calls, within minutes the head engineer of the entire wind farm and team had arrived—fluent in English. At first he wan’t really interested in helping us, but when he discovered we were Canadian, he offered the services of his welder, at no charge. (Though we gave the crew a 6 pack of beer and cash to the welder.)

Within an hour Tim had the bracket removed so that the welder could get to work repairing. The final result was a reinforced bracket far stronger than before. By 1 p.m., we were back on the road, grateful it hadn’t happened on a really remote road, a rising tide or a mountain pass. Our guardian angels are working overtime.

relaxing afternoon

The day’s work done, tired, we decided to spend the rest of the day at a baleneario. Relax, swim, a little schoolwork and spend the night. Filled with freshwater, reflecting to the prettiest pastel blue colour, it made for nice place to cool off and snap some sunset photos. It was a quiet night, and our first sighting of other travellers, all nationals, but nice to see another road worrier. After a swim and shower, we set off the next morning for only paying R30. $7 CND.

Next stop is the promised land…time to pump the kites and have some real fun!